The good, the bad and the ugly

Toyo and I crossed into California over Memorial Day weekend … or as our friend Dan put it “Nothing says Memorial Day like Vegas and Death Valley.”

It has been wonderful to smell the salt air again, see some incredible sights and catch up with friends and family. We spent all of June in California and had a lot of ups and downs the first half of the month — thankfully more ups than downs — but I’ll start with the bad news so we can move past it and get to the good stuff. Continue reading “The good, the bad and the ugly”

The Colorado Plateau, part 1: So many rocks!

We’ve been exploring the Colorado Plateau for about two weeks now, and I’ll admit that my geography skills are such that I didn’t even know this place existed until we drove all over it. It’s essentially an elevated expanse of land that stretches across parts of Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico and Utah, and it is jam-packed with stunning rock formations. Parts of it are also very scarcely populated, so the nights are incredibly dark, which makes for pretty spectacular star gazing.

Sadly, we haven’t been able to capture any of the starry nights yet, but Toyo’s working on figuring it out. In the meantime, here are some quick notes and pictures of the places we’ve been:

Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado
This is one of the stops I anticipated most eagerly because it’s so different from the other national parks, as most of the sites were man-made about 800 years ago. Ancestral Puebloans built rooms and homes out of caves a few dozen feet below the tops big mesas, where they farmed. I think it’s so inventive and genius, it’s hard to believe the idea didn’t catch on.

The cliff dwellings — built from simple-yet-sturdy bricks, and series of ladders and rock holds — are still around to see and walk through … absolutely incredible.

Canyonlands National Park, Utah
Canyonlands was lovely and really, really in the middle of nowhere. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves on this one, and also inform you that this is by far the most remote camping Tony and I have ever done. We took a dirt road to a place called Hamburger Rock, placed our $10 nightly fee into a freestanding box, and called it a campsite. There were about 10 tent campers not too far away but other than that, nothingness for miles.

Moab, Utah, and Arches National Park, Utah
At the recommendation of a checkout lady at Target (you read that right) we decided to stay a few nights in Moab, and make the short drive to Arches, for a little taste of civilization after the gloriously quiet night at Hamburger Rock.

Moab was a great little town, with a fun brewery and eclectic crowds but it’s hard to identify why it appealed to settlers. Here’s an actual conversation we had pondering this mystery:

Christina: “Do you think this is a place where, if you were travelling west in a covered wagon, at like 5 miles per hour, you’d get here, stop and say, ‘This it is. We made it.’?”

Toyo: “I feel like this is a place where someone said, ‘I’m done, guys. Just go on without me. I might catch up later.’ Everyone else was like, ‘But this is the Oregon Trail, and we aren’t in Oregon yet.’ But Lewis and Clark be damned, he didn’t want to go any farther.

“Then, because no one else was here, he claimed all the land and made a bunch of money.”

Christina: “People paid a bunch of money for this land?”

Toyo: “Yeah, over the generations. He got the Arches, and all this stuff around them, then sold it off to all the people here. The only problem is the government took a lot of it.”

Christina: “The government? What did they take?”

Toyo: “Well, the national parks. They got the Arches and Canyonlands. That’s premium real estate. Scenic.”

Christina: “And then what?”

Toyo: “The original settler kept the rest and passed it down to his kids and grandkids, and more people came and all that … So we got nothing else to make more margaritas, huh?”

The store only had 6 limes; all were juiced.

The sights in Arches were very impressive. There are a few places where I feel like the rocks might be defying gravity, but I’ll leave that up to the physicists and geologists to determine. I just think they’re neat to look at.

Scurvy, premature balding and other 18th-century travel dangers still very much alive today

Staying healthy while living on the road is no joke. Keeping tidy is tough, too, because my hair is everywhere. All. The. Time.

I doubt I’m shedding more now than usual, but living in close quarters brings me face to face with every individual strand of hair that abandons my scalp and the volume is both gross and terrifying. It’s back almost immediately after I sweep and I’m about to just give in and live in a giant hairball on wheels.

Then there’s scurvy, which can be a real danger if we’re not careful.

Because we’re choosing to camp mostly in remote sites in and near national parks, we’re almost never within a reasonable driving distance to grocery stores. There are small shops that stock essentials such as snacks, bread, peanut butter and wine — thank you Jesus — but for fresh produce, you’ve got to hit a real grocery.

Thus far, we’ve handled this by buying a few days’ worth of fresh produce when we stay in big cities and keeping plenty of frozen veggies on hand. I thought that was a reasonable strategy until Sunday when we went skiing — yes SKIING, crazy! — and I obsessed over a woman’s spinach salad, then proceeded to think of nothing else for the next two days.

I suspect her husband noticed my creepy staring but quickly assessed me as a non-threat after a quick glance at my outfit — made up of every piece of water-resistant hiking attire I own and zero ski clothes because we packed not realizing skiing in May was an option. And as if he needed more assurance that they could easily get away from the crazy lady in mismatched beiges, I had already fallen during the first run down the “easy” slope and hurt my knee, so I was extra nonthreatening.

Anyway, I only had eyes for crisp, leafy goodness after that, so we’ve adjusted our shopping plans from now on, and will make a point to stop at a real grocery store twice per week. Hopefully if we park the rig far from the entrance and shop quickly, we can avoid infuriating the locals by only taking up eight parking spaces for a short time.

This experience has made me sympathetic, though, to the struggles of people trying to eat a balanced diet while living in rural areas. That’s no easy task, friends. I thought about this during a recent drive and reasoned that most people who live far from grocery stores probably live on a farm or ranch and therefore can grow produce on their own, but surely land and weather conditions limit what they can grow, right? One can only eat so many carrots before getting real bored, or real orange.

It’s easier for me now to see why we have an obesity problem in America, considering the easy access to junk food and comparatively poor availability of produce. Plus, fruit and veggies at small local grocers is pretty expensive, so that’s the icing on the cake that we should only eat in moderation.

But enough about that, I know why you’re really reading this, mom, you want to know where we’ve been! Over the past week and a half or so, we’ve been to Santa Fe, Great Sand Dunes National Park, Central City, Colorado — which was really just a place to stay that allowed us to visit my friend Beckie, and her husband and daughter, and also ski at Arapahoe Basin — Ouray and Telluride. We’ve posted up in Ouray a little longer than planned so that my bruised knee can finish healing, then we’re on to another national park tomorrow.

Enjoy the pics!

 

Rain in the desert and other life-giving experiences

The Recalculating road trip is off to a great start!

We left Austin on Friday night — a few hours later than we had hoped but isn’t that always the way when you’re trying to get out of town early on a weekend?

Our first planned stop was to an RV park in Ozona, Texas, where we essentially planned to stay the night and get back on the road ASAP in the morning. This plan changed slightly when we arrived at the site around 11 p.m. and realized it was the campground version of the resort in The Shining … totally deserted, miles from civilization and eerily lit.

The decision to backtrack a few miles to the Econolodge and RV Park was a no-brainer. So, we essentially spent our first night on the road in a gravel parking lot with water, electric and sewage hookups but we weren’t chopped into bits by a maniac so we’re considering it a win.

By the next afternoon we were in Carlsbad, New Mexico — chosen for its short distance from both Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Carlsbad Caverns National Park. It was cold, windy and raining — in the DESERT — when we arrived, so we opted to sightsee 750 feet underground first.

The caverns are amazing. Miles and miles of beautiful rock formations all in a cave the size of about 14 football fields. Uncle Toyo (aka Tony) has been learning how to use our DSLR camera and caught what I must say are some pretty impressive shots considering the very low light conditions in the cave.

The next day we braved the sunny, cold, windy weather and hiked the 8.4-mile round-trip trail to the top of Texas’ tallest peak: Guadalupe Mountain. We almost died. Not really, but it was insanely hard and so windy at times that Uncle Toyo literally grabbed my backpack because he was worried I’d get blown off my feet. So chivalrous.

Surviving that hike was invigorating. I can’t recall ever feeling so bone-tired and accomplished. Everything from our shoulders down ached, yet we’re glad we did it. We live with so many comforts today — I often take the elevator up to my fourth-floor office for goodness’ sake — and coming by something the hard way reminded me of the incredible ways people survived on treacherous landscapes for generations. Every step, every day was tough then. Hunting, gathering, sheltering, finding water even … all of it required a level of skill, commitment and grit that few today possess. They probably went to bed bone-tired every night — whereas I sometimes read for an hour before I’m tired enough to sleep.

Easy street is a cozy place, but I think we’ve travelled it too long. We’re looking forward to following the paths of more resistance over the next four months, and hopefully finding life-giving experiences and valuable lessons in unexpected places.

That said, we’ve decided that to survive the remainder of our trip while maintaining our sanity and love for one another, we’re capping the hikes at 7 miles per day. Reflective thoughts on the rewards of grit are little comfort on the trail, and that last mile up and last mile down on this one were so brutal I literally thought about ducking and rolling the rest of the way down and praying I don’t break a bone.

That kind of thinking is not what Recalculating is about. We want to take an enjoyable detour from our “normal” lives, see the world and make memories before returning to our friends, families and full-time jobs. Being miserable for two hours of a six-hour hike doesn’t fit that bill. It also doesn’t allow me to move much for the following days — my legs are so sore I cannot even begin to describe it. Every step sends shooting pain throughout my lower half. Muscles that I didn’t even know I had ache even when I’m lying down…

Yet we still went on a short hike today. That means I’m going to have some seriously sculpted legs by the end of this trip, if I can manage to stop eating so many freakin’ tacos. ⇐ Written while sipping a margarita and munching chips and salsa.

Which brings me to my final point: After hiking almost 9 miles and burning an Apple watch-estimated 1,238 calories, all while in New Mexico … all you want is a cold drink and some great Mexican food. Sadly, we learned the hard way that restaurants in Carlsbad are not open on Sundays. None. Of. Them. And we tried … Yelp, Google and physically driving around revealed the only things open were a smoothie food truck and Pizza Hut. So we went back to the RV and feasted on leftover pizza, prosciutto, raw carrots, crackers, mixed nuts and grapes. Maybe that’s the kind of gourmet dining we should get used to during this RV-living phase. Or maybe we’ll plan ahead better when we hit grocery stores prior to small towns … just in case.

And to cap off this post that’s mostly about our first three days of travel, but also a little about life and vitality, I must share that we got another nephew this morning! Happy birthday, Ryan! We can’t wait to meet you!